I was attracted to this high vantage point because of the challenging perspective; as I painted I learned about Dubrovnik from the perspective of two locals caught in the daily riggers of mass tourism.

Our painting group arrived in Dubrovnik after a beautiful drive down the coast from Split with a short interlude into Bosnia and Herzegovina in order to cross the Neretva River, along the famous 16th-century Ottoman bridge.   Stari Most Bridge connects the two parts of the City of Mostar, with a lively market selling tourist trinkets, spices and colourful Ottoman coloured glass lamps.  Evidence of the ferocious battles that took place during the Bosnian war in the 90’s is apparent in many of the stone walls and buildings throughout the city, whereas the famous bridge destroyed by mortars has been beautifully restored as a symbol and point of pride for the people of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Arriving along the Dalmatian coast to the “Pearl of the Adriatic”,  Dubrovnik is as majestic a city as I have ever seen.   Protected by it’s massive stone  walls and host to a plethora of stunning architecture;  (St. Blaise Church, Sponza Palace, both  Dominican and Franciscan Monasteries to name just a few),  a walk along the limestone paved pedestrian streets is a lesson in Adriatic history.  Modern day Dubrovnik was put on the tourist map in recent years due to it’s fame as the location of King’s Landing in the hit TV series Game of Thrones.  Now a clamor of  tourists, restaurants and stylish boutiques, Dubrovnik is suffering from and indulgence of cruise boat tourists and other visitors from all reaches of the globe.  Tourism is the straw that stirs the economic drink in Croatia and Dubrovnik is the Aperol Cocktail that quenches the thirst for economic development.  It is not hard to understand the attraction of numerous Cruise boats to this Adriatic crown jewel, but the pressures of massive tourism has locals talking about diversification and limiting Cruise ship activity to the City.

Wandering the streets overlooking the Stradun/Placa  (the main street in the old fortress city),  I was so attracted to the dramatic perspective of the high vantage point.  Stopping to study this beautiful perch and reprieve from the hot sun, steep steps and throngs of tourists, I am approached by a local merchant asking if I need any information on the City.  I reply, “thank you, no – I am just trying to stay out of the way”  the tour agent responds … “me too, and it’s my City”.   Anna and I exchange a smile and a moment of understanding as I request permission to paint outside her agency.  Developing my watercolour,  I am entertained with  funny tourist stories, and some WTF stories as well.  Cruisers brush passed me snapping photo’s of what they think is a local artist on display for the tourists (lol).  It strikes me as odd that not a single person stopped to take a photo from this particular vantage point while I scoped out my painting location or as I set up my gear.  Now, there is not a single tourist who can resist the temptation of photographing this stunning scene or the local art monkey … but  holy F#$^ honestly do you have to stand directly in front of me, or rest your camera on my shoulder to get the same exact perspective as me.  Anna and I exchange glances and eye rolls before the competing tourist agent joins the party and starts auctioning off my painting to tourists for 5oo Euros.  This does not go well so he starts offering photos of famous Croatian Artist for a Euro each.  I am happy with my  500 Euro painting at the end of the morning but the experience painting it …. “Priceless”!

War Scars ~ Bosnia and Herzegovina

Stradun, Dubrovnik

The Perch, Dubrovnik